What are the objectives and method of cutting room?

In garment manufacturing, Cutting is an important process to make a quality product. Quality full fabric cutting reduces the wastage of fabric and makes the business profitable. Let's learn about the objectives and cutting fabric methods of the cutting room in garment factories with Cosma Technology.

Introduction to cutting room in garment industry

Cutting room is an extremely important section of the garment manufacturing process which has a major impact on the profitability of the business. Following are the few reasons which describe the importance of the efficient management of the cutting room in garment manufacturing process:

The cutting room is the feeding point to the factory and has a massive impact on all the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc.

Efficient and well-planned operations in the cutting room ensure smooth flow of work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the available resources.

Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a huge effect on the margins of the orders.

Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation of quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in the cutting process can result in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.

What are the objectives of cutting room?

Precision of a cut:

A proper and a smooth cut is one of the prime objectives of cutting. If a garment is not cut appropriately it may cause disturbance, chances are it may not fit the body well. Hence, it is significant to cut the pattern shapes accurately. The precision of a cut normally depends on the method of cutting incorporated. A piece of garment can be cut either manually or by computer controlled knives.

Clean edges:

A raw edge of a fabric often leads to snagging or fraying. Such defects are a result of inappropriately sharpened knives.

Unscorched, unfused edges:

Scorching is caused due to heat build-up in the knife which comes from friction blade passing through the fabric. In the case of thermoplastic fiber fabric for example, polyamide and polyester the raw edges are fused. If the piles are forcefully separated it gives rise to snagged edges and the hard edges are uncomfortable to wear. A well- sharpened, blade with wavy edge, slowing down the speed of the blade offers a good solution to this problem.

Support of the lay:

Cutting should not only provide support to the fabric but also allow the blade to penetrate the lowest ply of the spread.

Consistent cutting:

The cutting system should not hold to be limited in the height of piles there are many reasons for same such as mechanical or human reasons such as toppling or leaning this can cause deterioration in cutting quality.

What is cutting process in garment industry?

At the initial stage you receive a different size pattern for each style and garment from the pattern department. Then the cutting ratio for each garment style is decided and already sent by the merchandiser. In the meantime, you should buy the fabric according to the requirement from the store for each kind of garment style. Next up, the fabric is ready for spreading in which the fabric spreads with the correct height of the lay and ply tension. After spreading the next process in the cutting flowchart is marker planning, this involves placing a marker on the top layer of the lay. Then the fabric is finally cut by maintaining the marker. Once the fabric is cut in desired pattern shapes each part of different styles of fabric should be numbered to avoid mixing with other style fabric parts. And finally the pieces are shorted and bundled for the next process.

Methods of Fabric Cutting:

In the garments industry, there are 3 available cutting methods:

1. Manual Fabric Cutting Method

Hand scissors are used for cutting fabric plies manually. Hand scissors are not machines but very useful cutting equipment. Factories may have semi-automatic and fully automatic machines for fabric cutting, but can’t avoid use of hand scissors in the cutting section. Scissors are a common tool in the cutting process and hand scissors have many use in cutting room.

Here the cutting process is done by using a knife, scissors, drill, etc. The knife is placed in the head of the cutting machine. The manual method is the most used cutting method in the garments industry.

The manual cutting method can be done by using the following equipment:

Round knife,
Band Knife,
Straight Knife,
Scissor,
Die-cutting,
Drill.

Advantage of Manual Cutting Method:

Easy process of cutting.
Educated manpower is not required.
The low-cost knife is enough here to cut the fabric.
Low maintenance cost.
The disadvantage of the Manual Cutting Method:
Slow process.
Not suitable for large scale production.
Cutting speed cannot be controlled.
The intensity of the accident is very high.
Higher labor cost than computerized cutting method.

2. Semi - Automatic Cutting

2.1 Straight knife of Cutting Machine

The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a round knife and relatively reliable and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is used for the main cutting operation, a straight knife would be used to separate the lay into sections for easier handling.

* A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of knife & rpm of the motor. So, productivity is high.

* Automatic grinding.

* Automatic lubrication.

* Comparatively cheap.

* Can be moved easily by a wheel.

* Suitable for straight-line & curve line.

* Can be cut high curve line than the round knife.

* Fabric can be cut from any angle.

2.2 Round Knife Cutting Machine

A round knife is used only for straight lines or lower no of lays of relatively few plies.

* Suitable for cutting single-ply as well as multi-layer (say 20-30 layers).

* Easy to handle & operate.

* Suitable for small scale cutting.

* Suitable for gentle curve line cutting.

* To cut the larger part of the garments.

* With the same rpm, its efficiency is 10 times greater than the straight knife.

2.3 Band Knife Cutting Machine

Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required than can be obtained with a straight knife. Pieces to be cut are first cut on a block, and then cut exactly on a band knife.

* Suitable for any type of line.

* Very large productivity for limited product

* Such as collars, cuffs, placket etc.

* Automatic grinder grinds the knife instantly

* Air blower helps to reduce the fabric weight which increases the smooth movement of the fabric.

* Possible to cut 90֩ angle of the lay.

* The intensity of the accident is low.

2.4 Die Cutting Machine

This machine is useful where small motifs with particular shape and pattern and accuracy in cutting are needed.

Die to cut: Die cutting machines may be used for garments or parts of garments that do not change from season to season, such as a jeans pocket and leather belts. A die, a device that operates much like a cookie cutter, is made for each piece to be cut. The sharp edges of the die are pressed against the layers of fabric to cut them. A gang die can be made by connecting several dies together.

2.5 Notcher Machine

2.6 Drill Machine

3. Fully automatic cutting machine method:

Fully automatic cutting machines are used where a high volume of garments is manufactured. This machine cuts fabric layers as per command given in the computer system. Automatic cutting machines are also known as CNC machines. In the automatic cutting room, fabrics are spread on the table by an auto spreader and the lay is positioned in the cutting table prior to automatic cutting.

In the modern clothing manufacturing industry, the computerized cutting method becomes so much more popular day by day due to its higher production and less time-consuming efficiency. Here all programs are loaded into the computer and the computer performs all the activities which are loaded.

Nowadays most of the above cutting processes are automated. Like maker making, fabric spreading, and cutting. For increasing the cutting room productivity and reducing the manpower, garment companies are going for automation in the cutting room. Through CAD system and auto marker making, factories can save fabrics.

The computerized Cutting method can be done by using the following equipment:

3.1 Knife Cutting Machine

The combination of oscillating knife, tangential knife, drag knife and router bits make CNC knife cutting machine. The blade of this cutting tool moves on the surface of the material as per the configured tool path, and no heat while cutting the material

Advantages of Knife Cutting Machine

High Precision: This advanced tool performs at a higher speed with 5-8 times faster-cutting speed, consistency, and reliability than ever before.
Environment-Friendly: CNC knives are safe to use in different environments and easy to maintain. This digital cutting machine operates according to digitally programmed tool paths. It cuts the material either by moving only the knife and sticking the material to the machine or moving both the knife and the material.
Perfect Cutting Edge: CNC knife cutting machine produces smooth cutting edges without any burr. This machine also allows cutting square corners, angled edges, semicircles and segmental arcs with extreme precision. It helps in increasing efficiency, reducing the cycle time, and reducing the wastage of material.

3.2 Laser Cutting Machine

The layer of fabric is cut by laser rays. Laser cutting machine is also computer controlled machine

Laser cutting focuses a powerful beam of light projected onto a minute area to cut fabric by vaporization.

3.3 Water Jet Cutting Machine

Water jet cutting machine is another computer-operated, multi-directional method that has limited usage at this time. Water jet cutting is performed by propelling a tiny jet of water (0.001-0.0015 inch) through the fabric at very high pressure (70,000 psi). Water-jet cutting is being used for some fabrics and leathers, especially in the shoe industry.

3.4 Air jet Cutting Machine

3.5 Ultrasonic Cutting Machine

Ultrasonic cutter vibrates its blade 20,000 - 40,000 times per second (20 - 40 kHz). the ultrasonic cutter can cut nonwoven fabric, environment-friendly as they do not substantially discharge any crumbs, waste water, noise, or smoke.

3.6 Plasma Torch cutting Machine

3.7 Rib cutting machine

Narrow fabric tape of rib is cut from knitted fabric. Ribs are used in t-shirts neck finishing or piping operations and many other knits apparel manufacturing

3.8 Automatic blade cutting

Automated blade cutting machine is the most highly developed and widely used computerized cutting system. Numerically controlled knives cut multiple plies with great accuracy and speed. Paper markers are not needed for numerically controlled cutters. Operators communicate directly with the main control unit through a command console microprocessing unit with a keyboard.

3.9 Lesser-beam cutting

Lesser-beam cutting machine is sometimes used for men’s suits, which are cut a single layer at a time. The laser, a concentrated light beam is also directed by a computer.

Advantage of Computerized Cutting Method:

Very much effective cutting by a computer-controlled system.
Very fast cutting operation.
Suitable for large scale production.
Cutting speed can be controlled.
The intensity of the accident is very low.
No need for any marker.
Fabrics can be cut 7-8 times higher than the manual cutting method.
Low labor cost.
Reduce material costs.
Reduce labour requirements and eliminate the need for skilled cutters.
Accelerate the sewing process/productivity.
Maximise valuable floor space.
Integrated data sharing.

The disadvantage of Fully automatic cutting machines:

High investment cost of automatic machinery
Higher maintenance cost.
Skilled and educated manpower is required.

Anyone who has a manufacturing industry will know how important it is to their business solutions. Fully automatic cutting machines is a smart investment and an important edge in the competitive market.

The entire process is done within the single machine and this obviates the need to move the tools from one machine to another.

In the bottom-line, to achieve higher productivity with lower costs, it is very important for business to incorporate a type of machining solution inclusive of multi-function capabilities.

Good quality machines can reduce your production set-up, lead time, and also reduce manufacturing time. Fully automatic cutting machines provide the industry with innovative solutions with the mission to automate the cutting process and increase the productivity of the industry.